45 thoughts on “Perfect Tyre Pressure – 1psi at a time?

  1. SuperRockinRobert says:

    The oil is from vehicles and goes down in all the crevices and stays worn off the top surface by traffic. The rain fills the crevices and the oil floats to the top. This problem last for only the first part of rain depending on how hard it is raining.

  2. Phil 65 says:

    i do find that at 36/ 42 my bike feels skittish and feels as though the tyres are hard, now this could be down to suspension from the 90s but i find that dropping about 4psi front and back it just feels better. better in cold weather as well and better in the wet. thats just me, 40years riding now and im still learning new things. always be open to advice and make your own mind up. im not telling anyone to do what i do because what i like you may not. thats the great thing about biking as much as its a group thing its also an individual thing. tyre tests? yes go for it

  3. CalmBiker says:

    Often people just difference between a knackered old squared off tyre and a brand new one of a different brand. That said, the Dunlop OEM tyres that came on one of my bikes was terrible. Great in the dry, slightly better than greased ice in the wet. And I ride like a granny.
    Nobody used rubbers schools, which probably explains the number of 50 year old great, great grandmas in the area.

  4. DANIEL JOHNSTON says:

    Hi Matt, Totally agree with what you say i think people are so wrapped up in chasing that word ((spot on)) when they wouldnt even give budget tyres a hard time in the bends.
    I have just fitted these power 5 to my superduke and am shocked at how fast they have worn in the center, has yours worn down rapidly ?

  5. chris bee says:

    As far as the oil goes. I think people are more talking about at intersections. At traffic lights closest to the white line I'll usually see an oil spot in the middle. It's not really a big deal but definitely don't step on it and ride to the side of it. It's even in the California Highway Patrol Motorcycle Learners manual.

  6. ritchsuk says:

    I’ve met Dave at a supposed suspension setup workshop, he spent the whole time posing questions and didn’t actually teach anyone how to setup their bikes, he spoke a lot about setting ergonomics of leavers and waxed lyrical about tyres. I am sure is a very knowledgeable person, but on that particular day I came away feeling frustrated.

  7. David Balogh says:

    I concur, can't imagine an average person on a public road feeling the difference between 38 psi and let' say 34.
    Good to see all the sane comments for a change, it's not in fashion these days. Shocks swapped for solid struts for lower look, retro looking sawtooth tread Chinese rear tyres run at 16-20 psi just so a few spinal discs survive – braniacs all over the place.
    My blood pressure asked me to convey its gratitude. 🙂
    By the way, those Kawasaki bumboy pants rule 😀

  8. Richard Vanags says:

    Its quite simple for the average road rider, that is start with the manufacturers recommended pressures and if you find the tyres are getting too hot if you are riding harder than the average rider you will see the tyre starting to grain. Work with what you feel is better for you. Apart from Continental tyres I have to say I have not had an especially bad tyre and the Conti was only bad because I was riding it hard and rode from the UK to the Nurburgring and the times I was doing at the Ring were slower than I know they should have been. I did a back to back test at Mallory Park and the lap times were 3 seconds slower and the Conti's would not allow for a consistent lap due to how much slower they were.
    Track use I do set the pressure on the day and will start with 26PSI rear and 28PSI front on the Metzeler M7RR's or in the case of the R1 the Pirelli Super Corsa's. I would expect to see 30-34 PSI front AND rear after a session and then adjust to get them to keep 32psi front and rear when they are hot after a session. That is my preference on track and I know the tyre is soft enough to give good mechanical grip but not too soft that it is working the carcass so much that its just getting too hot due to tyre flex. I know some Dunlop's recommend 19PSI for their rear tyres hot (set with tyre warmers on the wheel for about 30 to 40 minutes at 80 degrees C). This is the only time I play with tyre pressures and on the road just stick to the manufacturers figures give or take about 5 psi.

  9. ride fast don't die! says:

    I ride with a lot of ppl and everyone runs different pressures. Generally very low on the rear. We are on the street. Granted we ride hard but I think it is unnecessary. I go just under the recommended. 34psi front and 38psi rear cold. Works fine for me. Oh yeah I've heard the same thing about the rain. Supposedly the first 15min they say. But I can ride almost the same in the rain as I do in the dry. Don't get me wrong I slow down a bit for the corners but grip doesn't seem to be a issue.

  10. Andy Reid says:

    The grease & yuck coming out of a road when it rains is actually kind of true. The TRRL is very aware of the greasy road effect. They even taught it at RAC ACU rider training, back in the 1970's & 1980's.

    However it requires that it hasn't rained for several weeks on a busy road with lots of traffic. When it rains all the grease & yuck, that traffic has been rubbing into the tarmac, is dissolved and brought to the surface, making the road surface temporarily greasy. Over a few days of continuous rain, the grease & yuck is washed off of the road surface and into the gutters & drains, so the road surface friction coefficient improves, despite the surface being wet, because the grease & yuck has been washed off of it.

  11. Andy Reid says:

    With sidecar outfits one is supposed to drop the front tyre pressure by at least 10 PSI under solo bike recommended to counteract front steering "crabbing" when pulling away into a right turns.

    I used to run 18 PSI in the front of my outfit instead of the MRTP 26 PSI and it cured the crabbing effects immediately.

  12. petrolheadJJ says:

    My bike's sticker says 2,5/2,9bar.
    My new tyres' manufacturer says 2,5/1,6bar HOT. When you get to tyres that have cold/hot pressures specified separately, start fiddling with them.

  13. Digger says:

    The thing is you buy the tires for your bike that you need buy the best you can afford.
    Some people only ride in the dry when the weather's favourable and good luck to those who do.
    Some people have to ride all year round almost every day in all weather's and temperatures, they are no better than the person who only rides when it is favourable, we are all bikers.
    My two pence for all, don't skimp on tyres don't skimp on brakes..
    You can get good tire pressure gauges, old UK ones or German.

  14. Rob Goodsight says:

    Good engineers have calculated the why and how a road tire needed to be inflated, in order to be safe for the road…for the rider and for others…I Stick to it and I try not to be a dickhead!

  15. Steven Williamson says:

    So much conflicting information on tire pressure. I haven't got time to read a bloody research paper on tire pressures. First trackday at Cadwell on the 15th Pirelli Rosso Corsa 2. Where the bloody hell do perelli publish pressures for trackdays…

  16. Dingo617 says:

    Cracking video, I would add when buying a used bike watch the age of the tyres, I bought a GSXR 600 from a dealer (i'm a new rider), tyres looked ok, decent tread, no cracks or cuts etc, I didn't check the age, turned out they were ten years old (Continental Road Attacks), the date on tyres is a four digit code in an oval box, all tyres have it, if it says for example 2716 that means it was made in the 27th week of 2016, 3605 would be 36th week 2005 etc, checking the dates of tyres is not in any workshop manual or handbook, got new Pilot Power 2's for it which seem great. Also heard mixed views on "release agent" on new tyres, some say it's not used on new tyres now and new tyres are fine straight out the box, others (including tyre fitters) say it is and new tyres are treacherous until "scrubbed in", other say there is no need to scrub in tyres.

  17. Bernie BNE says:

    In Brisbane, we get dry periods, several months with no rain. If the dry spell breaks with a light shower there's carnage on the road. Cars doing 180s at the lights and all sorts. I've always put it down to oil & grease rising from the road. If the dry breaks with a thunderstorm, the most likely occurrence, everything is hunky-dory.

  18. 6sheds says:

    Show me a continuous section of British road without patch repairs, potholes, tearouts, mud/dust and general damage where you could set a constant to test a tyre.

  19. Bernie BNE says:

    On my old R100 BMW, I used to ride solo, with pillion plus camping gear & everything in between. I used a 10% difference between hot & cold tyre pressures. That worked well for me, it gave good mileage from the tyres & good handling. The pressures were in line with handbook & tyre manufacturers specifications. Oh, I had White Power adjustable suspension with different settings for keeping the ride height constant etc.

  20. r3g3d17 says:

    I like Daves videos on suspension as they are usually pretty basic (even repetitive) and help people understand the fundamentals and what they need to DO to get their bike riding properly for them specifically. BUT as soon as the subject veers from suspensions he just seems to go off in the weeds and obsess over minor details just to seem smarter than everybody else. He also treats everything from from engine oil to tire pressure with the same process as suspension tuning in a track setting (E.G, very iterative and feel based) even though most things a like that a human is shit at figuring out.

  21. Gary Augustine says:

    right on, i saw that video and said to myself the same thing. he listed a bunch of variables but never tied it to the end numbers. it made no sense. the video could have been much shorter, just ride with a pressure that feels good, the end.

  22. XboobtubeX says:

    I clicked off when he said max pressure on the tire is 42, that is what he runs. Max. pressure is max, it is not the recommended pressure. If 42 is the max, and you put 42 in it, it heats up, than you will have more than 42 lbs of air in the tire, which means your over the max, pressure. Never start out at max pressure of what it says on the sidewall. But what do I know.

  23. Przemyslaw Majewski says:

    I am guessing that "oils on the road" are not oils but dust (fine rubber and sand particles) mixing with water and producing slurry and as it gets diluted it loses its lubricating proprties. I experienced it on way from work, full throttle from toll gates on dual carriageway, same bike, just after it started raining it is loosing traction, after whole day of rain no slipping.

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